April 17, 2012

Knit Skirt How-To




Update: I goofed on the yardage!  Updated values include the waistband.

I took the pattern for this knit skirt from a yoga skirt I own.  The pattern and construction are very easy and flattering.  It doesn't have the beautiful drape of Tanit-Isis's gored knit skirt but the economical cut allowed me to sew a camisole from the leftovers :)

Depending on the degree of stretch in your fabric, desired fit, and your measurements, these dimensions can be changed.  I'm waist 71cm, hip 95cm.
Seam allowances of 1.25cm (1/2") and hem allowances of 2.25cm are included.

Fabric: 0.9m/1yd, 120cm/48"+ wide knit
A lightweight jersey with lycra is ideal; to reduce curling don't prewash.
Cut all pieces with the greatest degree of stretch horizontally (around your body).

Waistband: Cut one piece 30cm x 78cm, or two pieces 30 x 40cm and 30 x 41cm
Skirt: Cut two trapezoids as shown below.  I cut the back piece upside down since my print isn't directional.  Your yardage will differ if cutting both skirt pieces right side up.

*If your fabric is wide enough cut each half of the waistband from the triangular areas top left and bottom right in the diagram.  This will reduce the yardage to 0.6m/yd and make the Earth happy :)

If your fabric is sheer a second identical layer can be used as lining.  Treat both skirt layers as one.  If the lining has less recovery than the skirt fabric trim 2-3cm off the lining and hem separately.

Assembly: Using a narrow zig zag or serger, sew the short ends of the waistband right sides together.  Press open, fold in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press.  The waistband will be worn folded over.

Sew the skirt side seams.  Sew the folded waistband to the skirt's top edge, pinning and matching by quarters to ensure even distribution.  If you cut the waistband in one piece place that seam at center back.  Otherwise sew a piece of ribbon or a label to mark CB.  Press all seam allowances toward the skirt and topstitch.
  
Try on the skirt to check hem length and evenness.  Trim as needed and serge the hem if desired.  Turn up 2-2.5cm and stitch close to the raw edge.  I used a 3mm long x 2mm wide zig zag; a twin needle or coverstitch would also work well.  

5 comments:

  1. This is lovely and WAY more economical of fabric than my gored knit skirt, which used up two full metres!

    ... now I want to go paw through my knit stash...

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    Replies
    1. Haha, I have to give myself permission to use that much fabric! I love swishy skirts, though, so should start sewing more of them.

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  2. What a clever idea! I am also impressed with your technical drawing.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you, I am happy to take credit for what feels like a patterning cheat! I used Google Docs for the drawing and there's a built-in trapezoid shape. My lucky day :)

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