Gussets

I've been trying to sew a robe for my guy for over a year.  I'm on the fourth pattern, a vintage men's robe, after 3 miserable failures.  Apparently a man with broad shoulders is unknown to most modern pattern companies.  So I've ventured back to the 60s.

Simplicity 6756
Men's robe w/ raglan sleeves

The vintage pattern fits well but is a size too small for his chest and shoulders.  Funny, I never have to do a full bust adjustment for myself but am learning it for him ;)  I made a mock up with some scrap knit.  I've let out the sleeve seams and am ready for another fitting.  It needs underarm gussets though, not included in the pattern.  I've unsewn the basting to make a nice hole but am having trouble getting the gusset in!  And this is basting by hand, mind.  I'm going to fit the mockup again with a hole, see whether I need to tweak the gusset, and go from there.

I'm working with french terry with a soft brushed outside.  It's nice fabric and I hope to get the pattern sorted so I can cut into it.  He's excited to have a robe that fits, for once, and that's long enough.  The perils of being tall and broad shouldered!

The failed patterns:

New Look 6858: Fail One

New Look 6657: Fail Two

Simplicity 7030: Fail Three
Planned to fit shirt and use to alter pattern