Serger Tension Settings

I had an email asking about my serger, and in the process of trying to explain how I find tension settings I thought "this would make a great blog post".   I use a scientific-ish method, typically changing one setting at a time.  The test results are written down on scratch paper, then the final settings are noted along with the fabric type, number of layers, and other information.

Recently I serged cotton jersey, 2 layers, with a 3 thread stitch and 2mm stitch length.  I usually make note of the stitch width as well.

My notes looked like this, x representing the unused needle:

                                  L R UL LL  [left, right needles, upper looper, lower looper]
2 layer jersey, 3thr 2ℓ    x  4  5½  5     lower looper tight; upper looper wraps under
                                             x  4  5½ 3½   upper very loose
                                             x  4  6½ 3½   skips stitches
                                             x  4  4    4      upper loose
                                             x  4  5    4      Final setting


Next time I need to serge cotton jersey I'll save a great deal of time testing settings.  Some tweaking is usually required, especially when changing stitch length or width, and that is also noted.  I keep very close watch on these notes as you can imagine!  Cotton jersey may work close to 4-4-4-4 base settings but muslin and poly satin have quite different characteristics.  That's not even getting into rolled hems!

Done, Almost Done and Coming Attraction

I've satisfactorily finished a top, from bleached muslin.  It began life as Simplicity 2936 but I altered just about everything.  Side bust darts added, back seam with swayback alteration, it slips over my head, internal bias strips for facings, sleeves narrowed, and darts in the raglan sleeves.  Last I added two bias loops to the rear darts at waist height and cinched them with a loop of elastic cord.  I used a ribbon at first until I realized just how hard it is to tie a bow behind my back!  Boring front-facing pic.

And a skirt that I finished two years ago but have fiddled with ever since.  Made from two trapezoids of lycra/rayon knit, lined with white jersey (old t-shirts), and two rectangles for the wrap-over waistband.  The lining sagged after wearing and required surgery to shorten the lining and rehem the layers separately.  The hems edges were serged, turned under, and zigzagged down.  The blue print hem still needs an additional row of stitching to stay flat after washing, then it'll be done for real ;)

The jersey creates a lovely drape and doesn't cling during hot weather.  I even accidentally fabric matched at center front :)  The outer fabric is translucent and looked best with a white under layer, so lining it was!

I apologize for the blurry back photo.

Hem detail

There was enough fabric left after the skirt to squeeze out a top, which just needs a few finishing details.

Next on my agenda, aside from sewing, is to create a DIY Serger oiling, cleaning and timing tutorial.  This will be a lot of work but with sunshine I'll have enough light for photos.  I'm hoping to feel well enough to dive in and get it done quickly.

I Finished Something!

A test hoodie, with some striped knit that wasn't usable for its original purpose.  Or course stripes made it much more time consuming, but now I'm done!  The pattern, Butterick 4198, is pretty good.  Next up is a longer version from coral french terry.

Underneath the hoodie is a dress I'm working on--please ignore the red zipper.

The fabric had interesting selvedges so I cut the hood on the selvedge.  I also sewed on selvedge strips for the front bands.  The fuzzy edges were turned back and topstitched.  I didn't have a zipper for this so left off closures.

Many of the interior seams were serged.  The hems were double topstitched with my sewing machine.

The finish work isn't great.  I had some serger troubles, which a good oiling seems to have fixed, but it looks pretty good from the outside.  I'm pleased with how most of the stripes matched up.  The fronts match up perfectly, they're just misaligned in the photos.

Inside front band (eek!)

Front band 

Side seam

My Sewing Machines

I began sewing over 20 years ago with my mom showing me some basics on her Bernina.  When I first became ill in high school and was home all day I picked up quilting.  I used my mom's machine and made a few quilts with it.

My grandmother bought me my own machine, a Pfaff 6091, as a graduation gift.  Despite not having attended the last 1 1/2 years of HS I graduated in the top 5%, as a National Merit Scholar.  I'd worked very hard before the illness.  /bragging

Pfaff 6091: She's no beauty queen but I love her!

I saw a sewing cabinet and machine at a local thrift store and bought it, approx 2002.  It sewed but the wires were chewed up.  Not knowing how to clean it, much less thread it!, I used the cabinet as a table for about 7 years.  Then I found some great Singer resources online and cleaned her up.  I took apart as many moving parts as possible, cleaned and oiled them, and put them back together.   The machine had been well cared for but I like knowing how it works and that everything's lubricated and functioning correctly.

I bought a few replacement parts: new power cord, bobbin slide plate, belt, bobbin winder tires and bobbins.  That's it!  It also came with the original box of accessories and Ziz Zag and Buttonholer attachments.

Singer 66-16

Two years ago I bought a Babylock serger, BL400, off cragslist.  It's identical to the BL450 Lauren, only cheaper ;)  I'd been looking for an affordable serger for over a year.  It's a great reliable serger so far.  Tension settings sometimes get the best of me but only on tricky fabrics.

BL 400 serger

I like that all my machines are mechanical and I can maintain them myself.  The help found online makes this possible and I'm grateful to everyone who shares their knowledge to help others.