Showing posts with label help. Show all posts
Showing posts with label help. Show all posts

January 19, 2011

Lining Stretch Wovens 2

I decided to answer my own question ;)  I took a piece of the fashion fabric, pinned to it the new lining on the bias, and tugged.  I am almost satisfied.  The horizontal stretch was good, and the fashion fabric has no vertical stretch.  The only negative is the lack of bias stretch, which is on the straight grain for the lining thus immovable.  On the true bias the lining doesn't stretch but any other angle does have some give.  By adding a good sized pleat to the center back, and a smaller amount to the sleeve linings, I think all should be well.

Hopefully tomorrow I can take some photos to demonstrate, providing the muscle spasm in my neck calms down.  I'd like to cut the lining and start assembly of the jacket tomorrow or this weekend.

There are a couple unusual aspects of this jacket that I think others might find interesting.  The interlining is thick and doesn't ravel so I'm planning to lap the seams to reduce bulk.  I may build the jacket in three layers.  Or maybe lap the interlining and one layer of the lining, fold under the seam allowance of the second lining piece, and topstitch it to the lining and interlining.  Looks like I'll be practicing on scraps first!

Lining Stretch Wovens

I've cut and interfaced the pieces for a stretch faux suede jacket (in 2007 that is).  I have stretch interlining for warmth but am unsure about the lining itself.  I cut non-stretch lining pieces as the pattern directed, to the same size as the outer pieces.  Now I know better.  The original lining also ravels if you breathe at it so I've lost much of the seam allowances in places :/

I have some fun silk charmeuse(?) that I'm thinking of lining with instead.  If I cut the lining on the bias will it stretch enough?  The jacket has positive ease, the stretch is for range of motion and comfort.  I've tried looking online for help but my google skills are dull today.  I was thinking of cutting on the bias and adding a back pleat plus a little extra to sleeve width.

ETA: I answered some of my own questions in this post.
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