Jacket Fail

I've been working on sewing a jacket for a while.  I started working on the shell today and realized I'd switched the front and facing pieces.  I've sewn and fused the facing to side front!  I'm sick of all the mistakes I've made on this jacket and ready to start over with something else.  Maybe I'll rip out all that stitching and fix it someday, but not today.

So I have a french terry sweatshirt or a Maggy London dress up next.  I own a ML dress and love it!  The fit is great, it's very comfortable, and the pattern drafting looks identical to my dress just a different style.  I just need to have a good day to cut it and another day or two to sew it up.

For the sweatshirt I want to incorporate an idea I saw for polar fleece: faux ribbing using twin needle stitching.  I think it'll look good and fit better at the hem and cuffs.  Need to sew some samples first, though.

A Jacket

I started this jacket back in 2006 in a lovely browny-purple stretch faux suede.  Since then I got divorced, worked at PT so my muscles weren't in spasm neck-to-hip, couldn't sew for a couple years because I forgot to eat and lost 15-20lbs, remembered to eat and gained the weight back, made a whole new group of friends, and otherwise lived life.

Some things on this project I did right, like making a muslin.  Other things I did wrong: buying awful thin rayon lining fabric because it was the best color match, not pressing well, cutting inaccurately.  Thankfully I can fix the pressing mistakes, and I now have nice silk to line it.  I didn't mark the changes on the pattern tissue--mostly lengthening--and have since reused the muslin pieces so I cut the lining from the fashion fabric.

In a previous post I wrote about problems with my initial pressing and interfacing.  I still need to grade the seam allowances and decide whether to add more interfacing, or perhaps topstitch?

Since the outer fabric is stretch I'm cutting the lining on the bias.  I also added a couple inches of extra width to the back center.  Cutting is one of the single most painful things I do, but I laid out my new cutting mat on the floor and got it done.  I've started trying to sew the lining together but bias silk charmeuse is awful!  Hand basting might be in order.

Lining fabric

The wrong side is slipperier and a lighter pink so that's my right side.  I was given this silk, a dyeing experiment by someone in my sewing group.  It's perfect for my purposes :)

I'll post more as I assemble the jacket exterior and try to sew the bias lining.  Thanks for reading!

Bad Bad Seamstress (aka, Me a Few Years Ago)

When I started this jacket, in 2006, I'd done very little garment sewing.  I'd made a couple pair of pajama pants but this was my first big project.  I fit the muslin and got all the way to assembling the jacket when I had trouble.  I didn't press the seams well, then interfaced the fronts.  I developed awful neck pain, which I still have, so sewing was set aside.

I recently pulled out this jacket and saw the problems.  I busted out my utility knife and cut the interfacing at the edge of the seam allowances.  This allowed me to press the seams flat, showing just how terribly I'd pressed first time around.  Even the straight seams weren't pressed flat!  More photos here.

Seam pinned flat with gauge showing excess fabric

Starting to cut the interfacing

After cutting the interfacing I pressed the seams again.  Finally, a curve at the bust!  I didn't have a pressing ham in 2006 which surely contributed to the problem.  (I'm bustier on the left side; the differences are intentional.)

Left front

Right front 

I always liked this faux suede and am pleased that I can resurrect the project :)  Hopefully it turns out well, or at least wearable.

Change of Plans

Mr Simplicity got the axe

I had been contemplating whipping up a robe by Valentine's Day but then the recipient couldn't decide whether he wanted to continue our relationship.  That's not the kind of relationship I want to be in so I told him not to bother trying to decide.  So the robe is nixed.

I have everything cut out and ready for a jacket, along with an exposé post on my terrible sewing circa 2006.  There's also a mockup for a jumper that's been stewing for a couple years now.  I just found chocolate brown velvet for trim :D

I've been having some nerve pinching in my right arm/hand due to muscle tension but it seems ok to sew.  If I can just get some energy I'll be good to go!  

Lining Stretch Wovens 2

I decided to answer my own question ;)  I took a piece of the fashion fabric, pinned to it the new lining on the bias, and tugged.  I am almost satisfied.  The horizontal stretch was good, and the fashion fabric has no vertical stretch.  The only negative is the lack of bias stretch, which is on the straight grain for the lining thus immovable.  On the true bias the lining doesn't stretch but any other angle does have some give.  By adding a good sized pleat to the center back, and a smaller amount to the sleeve linings, I think all should be well.

Hopefully tomorrow I can take some photos to demonstrate, providing the muscle spasm in my neck calms down.  I'd like to cut the lining and start assembly of the jacket tomorrow or this weekend.

There are a couple unusual aspects of this jacket that I think others might find interesting.  The interlining is thick and doesn't ravel so I'm planning to lap the seams to reduce bulk.  I may build the jacket in three layers.  Or maybe lap the interlining and one layer of the lining, fold under the seam allowance of the second lining piece, and topstitch it to the lining and interlining.  Looks like I'll be practicing on scraps first!

Lining Stretch Wovens

I've cut and interfaced the pieces for a stretch faux suede jacket (in 2007 that is).  I have stretch interlining for warmth but am unsure about the lining itself.  I cut non-stretch lining pieces as the pattern directed, to the same size as the outer pieces.  Now I know better.  The original lining also ravels if you breathe at it so I've lost much of the seam allowances in places :/

I have some fun silk charmeuse(?) that I'm thinking of lining with instead.  If I cut the lining on the bias will it stretch enough?  The jacket has positive ease, the stretch is for range of motion and comfort.  I've tried looking online for help but my google skills are dull today.  I was thinking of cutting on the bias and adding a back pleat plus a little extra to sleeve width.

ETA: I answered some of my own questions in this post.