January 19, 2011

Lining Stretch Wovens 2

I decided to answer my own question ;)  I took a piece of the fashion fabric, pinned to it the new lining on the bias, and tugged.  I am almost satisfied.  The horizontal stretch was good, and the fashion fabric has no vertical stretch.  The only negative is the lack of bias stretch, which is on the straight grain for the lining thus immovable.  On the true bias the lining doesn't stretch but any other angle does have some give.  By adding a good sized pleat to the center back, and a smaller amount to the sleeve linings, I think all should be well.

Hopefully tomorrow I can take some photos to demonstrate, providing the muscle spasm in my neck calms down.  I'd like to cut the lining and start assembly of the jacket tomorrow or this weekend.

There are a couple unusual aspects of this jacket that I think others might find interesting.  The interlining is thick and doesn't ravel so I'm planning to lap the seams to reduce bulk.  I may build the jacket in three layers.  Or maybe lap the interlining and one layer of the lining, fold under the seam allowance of the second lining piece, and topstitch it to the lining and interlining.  Looks like I'll be practicing on scraps first!


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