When I started this jacket, in 2006, I'd done very little garment sewing. I'd made a couple pair of pajama pants but this was my first big project. I fit the muslin and got all the way to assembling the jacket when I had trouble. I didn't press the seams well, then interfaced the fronts. I developed awful neck pain, which I still have, so sewing was set aside.
I recently pulled out this jacket and saw the problems. I busted out my utility knife and cut the interfacing at the edge of the seam allowances. This allowed me to press the seams flat, showing just how terribly I'd pressed first time around. Even the straight seams weren't pressed flat! More photos here.
|Seam pinned flat with gauge showing excess fabric|
|Starting to cut the interfacing|
After cutting the interfacing I pressed the seams again. Finally, a curve at the bust! I didn't have a pressing ham in 2006 which surely contributed to the problem. (I'm bustier on the left side; the differences are intentional.)